Windows 11 Home 64-bit / AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT / AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 8-Core 3.59 GHz / RAM 16 GB > There is both a mame and mame 32 ini file
There is both a mame and mame 32 ini file What does using the alternate (-effect) mean? Sorry for dragging up such an old thread for my first post but I could do with some help. > These should be in your "artwork" folder by default and a selection is provided with > You may also use the alternative (-effect) command, when a.
#Does maximus arcade have to be online how to#
> Guys I'm running mame64 bit version and I have no idea how to turn on scan lines These should be in your "artwork" folder by default and a selection is provided with official binary downloads from png is supplied, will use that as the scanline pattern. You may also use the alternative (-effect) command, when a. > look in your mame.ini and docs/hlsl.txt > You don't set it in the Front End, you use HLSL You don't set it in the Front End, you use HLSL Is it possible to set it in MALA front end or Maximus Arcade? > Guys I'm running mame64 bit version and I have no idea how to turn on scan lines in Standard switches should be quite tiring to use in a longer time.Guys I'm running mame64 bit version and I have no idea how to turn on scan lines in games. The actuation force on these are quite low, so you don't get sore fingers after longer play sessions. They don't seem like anything special, but I'm overall very satisfied with them, and they come in many shapes and colors.Īll my microswitches are cherryswitches. If they're better than HAPP as suggested, I don't know though. My buttons are classic arcade types like the HAPPs that mention, but read somewhere that IL buttons were superior to HAPP, and they are quite long, so also works with mounting in wood. To be honest, I found the actuators on the Sanwas were leaving the joystick with quite a lot of deadzone before activating the switches, so I made some new slightly wider actuators on a lathe, but spares can be bought online, it's just something to consider before buying. Many japanese joysticks are made for mounting on thin steel plates, and are therefore shortshafted. Sanwa JLW-8 joysticks, because these were widely recommended, and because Seimitsu LS-32 are too short for my mounting method: from the underside of a 3/4" wooden plate. I don't know much about the ControlBlock, but I can tell you what made me choose the hardware for my setup: I have them out of normal reach in the corners of my cabinet and two more that I use for volume.Ĭool to hear that you're planning an arcade build - it's so much fun, both to build, use and maintain! Don't forget to share some build-photos eventually :) These can come in very handy for actions like EXIT, PAUSE, and so on. It also doubles as the SELECT button in Emulation Station and console emulators.įinally, consider an admin button or two on your panel. The Coin button is sometimes overlooked, but you need it for arcade games. You will need to investigate the games you want to play to determine how many buttons you need and their layout, but you should be thinking about each player also needing a START button and a Insert-Coin button. Pay attention to depth, as some buttons work better through a thinner substrate like sheet metal while others are built for 3/4" plywood or MDF. Some folks like leaf style switches for the way they feel with repetitive presses. Buttons are often microswitch based, or have integrated switches inside, and there are some retro 'leaf' switches which are quieter and more authentic. When it comes to pushbuttons, you have a lot of options. These days there are many arcade part sellers including some on eBay and on Amazon. I have no complaints whatsoever about them. My buttons are from their product lineup and they are clones of a standard HAPP microswitch button. I bought my joysticks and buttons over a decade ago from Groovy Game Gear. There are other joystick and button makers too, like Sanwa. One decision worth thinking about is if you want fighter-bat style grips, or ball grips. They also make the Competition model which is very similar and cheap. These are the simplest, cheapest style you can buy. I have HAPP Super joysticks in my system. HAPP has been around since the beginning of real arcade systems and they are a standard name for arcade parts.
Once you have seen the cream of the crop, take a look at HAPP brand for the opposite end of the spectrum.
I would take a look at the Ultimarc website to see what I would call the advanced options for joysticks. I am not sure if you wanna go that route with just two players, or a more typical stand-up or bartop design, but you have a lot of options for the actual equipment. My system is a 'cocktail' style table with arcade controls on three sides.